I have to start today's report off with an event that took place last night while I was sleeping. Sleep came easy to me last night as yesterday's sail was quite long and there is plenty to do for one person to handle all of the necessary sail changes and trims, so I was sufficiently tired. After watching a movie I went to bed around 8:30 pm and I was out. In the middle of the night I was abruptly awaken by very unique, loud sounds. I immediately recognized the sounds as I had the same experience happen about two weeks ago when I was anchored in Agua Verde. It was the sound of whales. Whales communicating with each other. The sounds were easily heard and quite loud as they resonated through the hull of the boat. Some were high pitched singing type sounds, like what you would hear on a National Geographic special about whales on the TV or internet. Some of the sounds were low, grunting noises, almost guttural. It was amazing and the sounds were so clear and loud that I thought they must have been within feet of the boat. I grabbed a flashlight and ran up on deck, scanning the water nearby so I could see them. I looked and looked, but nothing. I went back down below to hear again the continued communication that was going on between at least two, if not several of them. I listened for about five minutes or so then went up on deck again to see if I could hear them from the top side. Nothing. Going down below my hull continued to provide a clear path for their noises. I was up for quite a while just listening to them, trying to imagine what they were saying to each other. After about 45 minutes or so the sounds started fading and then within another 5 minutes I was left just listening to the lapping of the water on the sides of the hull. Wow! How amazing is that? I was then and continue to be grateful for experiences like that. To be that close to something so amazing. I have no idea how close or far they were but it seemed as if they were only feet away, a few yards at most. Although it could have been miles, who knows.
Just so you don't think that I'm totally out of my mind or have crazy dreams I watched several whales today just at the edge of the bay, maybe 1/2 mile away. One was a large humpback with a calf. Both the larger one and the calf jumped carelessly out of the water several times. A couple other whales were a little farther away but I could easily see them breach and blow huge plumes of air mixed with salt water like steam bellowing out of a train in an old western movie. Pretty cool stuff.
Down on the southern cape, or southern tip of the Baja peninsula, it definitely has more of a Pacific Ocean feel as apposed to the Sea of Cortez. Long ocean swells roll through and you can hear them crashing on the beach. The surf isn't big here but it would definitely be a challenge getting the dinghy ashore, especially by myself. Later this afternoon after I did a few chores around the boat I took the paddle board over to where the sand and rocks meet on the northeast side of the bay. The swell was breaking over the rocks and it looked like it might be rideable. It was a nice little left break and after getting the hang of catching a wave on a paddle board I caught a couple small waves and enjoyed the ride. However, it was quite shallow and the bottom was all rocks and coral and after taking a little digger and scuffing along one of the rocks I decided that the paddle surfing might best be left for a more forgiving bottom...like sand. lol.
Tonight, if it stays calm, I am going to paddle over by where I attempted to paddle surf and see if there are any creepy crawlies out. Hopefully I can find some so Dave and Stephanie can be properly introduced to boat life with a fresh lobster dinner. You never know. Tomorrow I will set sail to San Jose del Cabo, a short 28 miles or about 5 or 6 hours away. I met a couple here in Frailes on a Bavaria 42 that are heading that way tomorrow as well so we will probably buddy boat. Adios from Bahia Frailes. Until next time...
Bret
SV Liahona
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