Tuesday, April 28, 2015

April 28, Napolo

2pm.  I am currently typing out this blog sitting in the cockpit of the Liahona as I sail northward to a small fishing village called Nopolo.  The day saw very, very light winds and flat seas this morning coming out of the La Paz area then I finally got to turn off the motor about 3 hours ago to enjoy the tranquility of a beam reach sail in about 8 knots of wind.  Mostly a typical day sailing in the Sea of Cortez as I changed sail at least a half dozen times but I was energized by a shrimp cocktail snack about an hour ago. It's pretty quiet out here by my lonesome but after 5 weeks of visitors it is welcomed.  I have passed 3 or 4 boats going in various directions in the lower part of the Sea of Cortez and recently just got off the radio with Paddy and Queenie on Le Chatbute (I'm pretty sure I screwed up that spelling. ha), a couple on a Leopard 43 that Marne and I met on the other side in San Blas.  It is pretty cool to meet people like that, go your separate ways and then weeks, months or years later rendevouz when your paths cross again.  All part of what I love about being a cruiser.

Today it is about 85 degrees, the waters clear and slightly warming up a bit as the sea temperature is now 74 degrees.  It has been such a nice day and I had high hopes for some fish but I have been dragging lures all day to no avail.  While I was motoring in the calm of the morning I decided to get a few chores done and the first on the list was the new salt water pump under the galley sink.  Out with the old and in with the new. About an hour later I again have salt water in the galley which definitely cuts down the amount of fresh water I use for washing dishes.

As I am writing the wind went from 3 knots to now blowing 16. Go figure.  It is coming from the north, the direction I am heading, but I only have about 6 miles to go so I will just motor into the wind and chop for another hour and I'll be there.

5pm - Arrived at Nopolo and dropped anchor in this amazingly beautiful, remote spot along the Baja coastline.  A single family lives here in Nopolo in the only house just off of the rocky beach. No roads lead here, as this spot and the small village just 2 miles north of here that is home to 6 families is only accessible by boat. After arriving I paddled ashore to meet the family and they were very nice.  A young couple with two girls, maybe 14 and 9 years old.  They have called this place home for 15 years now. Behind their humble, cement house there is a narrow but deep valley that cuts through Gigantas mountain range ending here in the tiny valley of Nopolo.  The valley itself is lush and green with vegetation in contrast to the near vertical rock walls that go upward to the south and the north forming this little enclave.  Looking to the east is the San Jose channel formed between San Jose Island and mainland Baja with the nutrient rich channel between the two that is about 5 miles wide and some 20 miles long which provides several families with a way of living fishing these waters.

I am going to make some dinner, watch the sun go down behind these majestic mountains that tower above me and then turn in for the night.  Hope all is well up north. Ciao for now.

SV Liahona

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