Saturday, April 25, 2015

April 25, San Evaristo

It was a beautiful morning arising with the sun in Isla San Francisco.  Calm, glassy waters formed the surface of the aqua blue waters of the anchorage that sits over white sand 20' below the boat.  Two dolphins where gracefully cruising around the bay but concentrated most of their time between the Liahona and a trawler about 100' to the south of us.  We lazily enjoyed the morning then pulled anchor around 11am to head across the narrow passage to San Evaristo about 9nm away.  The winds were very light, almost non existent, the sea near perfectly flat.  Within 100 yards of lifting the anchor and placing it into it's spot on the bow sprit we raised the main and rolled out the light wind, blue and white reacher, shut off the Yanmar and peacefully sailed out of the bay and toward the northwest.  We only had a short distance to go, speed to arrive not an issue, so we sailed along on a beam reach at about 2-3 knots in 5 knots of wind.  A medley of music playing quietly on the stereo speakers in the cockpit, the sun replacing the energy in the batteries we had used the night before and the boat pushing through the water at a slow but steady rate with barely a ripple on the surface of the Sea of Cortez.  I was definitely in my happy place.  Total peace.  Not a single worry dancing through my sometimes restless mind.

San Evaristo is a fishing village at the head of a very protected cove. A small, remote, quiet and tranquil village that is home to about 80 people. (Tarren, you know the place...and the store. ha)  After securing the anchor on the sandy bottom we went ashore to have a cold drink at the only "restaurant" in town.  A small hut with a gentleman named Lupe and a gringo couple that started up the establishment about 6 months ago.  Cold drinks and ceviche.  He brought out a small plate of ceviche first to see if we approved then went back into the kitchen to make up the fresh ceviche from scratch delivering to our small table 4 huge bowls, completely full to the rim of the Mexican favorite.  One bowl would have been difficult for us to finish.  We asked Lupe if he could put the leftovers in the fridge for tonight when we return for dinner and he politely obliged and then asked us what we might want for dinner so he could fetch the necessary ingredients for our meal.  Then a quick trip to the "store", a metal shack with dusty cans of various items, some fresh and not so fresh fruits and vegetables in baskets and basic staples like 100 lb. sacks of beans, rice, sugar and dog food. ha. We picked up a few items and paid the two young ladies, both about 14 years old, that were in charge for the afternoon.

Tonight will find us back at Lupe's place for some fresh fish, scallops and more of his delicious ceviche that we couldn't finish earlier today.  A very peaceful, quiet and laid back day.  Oh, one other Lupe's we were introduced to Bobby, a mutt dog that will go get any rock that you throw out into the ocean.  A fist sized rock is best thrown about 20 or 30 yards out into the water that Bobby will run into the water after, then swim to the general area where he bobs around with his hind legs down and his head above the water then when he spots the rock he dives down, head first, maybe in 3-5' of water, picks up the exact rock and swims back to you dropping the rock at your feet begging for another toss.  Lupe said he is famous and if you You Tube Bobby the dog in San Evaristo you will see his videos. lol

That's another day in the Sea of Cortez. Ciao for now.

Bret, Clint and friends,
SV Liahona

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